Any forearm hypertrophy workout with only a portable hangboard? This includes fat grip exercises, plate pinching drills, towel pull-ups, ledge/mountain climber pull-ups, rope Hello, my main problem is I've stopped seeing gains in strength, I've done 4 cycles of Recruitment pulls in a … The Zlagboard comes with a built-in protocol for forearm endurance training, developed by Duncan Brown, an Australian climber and coach .The idea behind the Zlagboard Forearm Endurance Workout is to generate a severe forearm pump, targeting the anaerobic lactic energy system. Most climbers do not have exceptionally large forearms. Opening and closing a spring-laden grip is not the way to be a better climber. I've trained pinch blocks before, and I noticed that my crimping got stronger as a by product. Hypertrophy for Climbing Part 2: Forearms, Fingers, and The Amended Program. I never really told you I was talking about something other than fingers and forearms, which is what most people associate with climbing hypertrophy. Yesterday I posted Part 1 on "Hypertrophy for Climbing", and comments were made within hours of the post:  Anonymous said... What are you doing in terms of forearms, the weakest link for probably 99% of climbers? My amended end of summer program looks like this: Funny thing is, my best season came after a winter spent focused on the hangboard. Would you agree that grip training could help your overall hand and wrist strength? It's amazing: you get close them and they just get smaller, and smaller and you realize their jacked appearance is partly because of being very, very lean. I don't think standard grip trainers will help, because they don't train the hand positions (and muscles) that actually help you grip small holds. It's what every other sport does. Who knows? Extreme strength/weight ratio. That can take you out for weeks/months. Maybe it's genetics, or maybe it's the type of climbs they like to do. No, climbing is the goal in climbing. I figured Ryan Palo would be the best guy to consult about how exactly he uses hangboarding for the purpose of hypertrophy. You don't want heavy muscles, you want a high strength/weight ratio. Now what's the best way to train for hypertrophy? Climbing is, I would venture to say, majority a skills sport. I could see how this imbalance of muscle strength to tendon strength could, if only in your mind, lead you to try to climb harder than what you're body is actually capable of doing. For me, the number two exercise, coming in close behind bouldering, is the hangboard. That isn't to say that forearm hypertrophy isn't important... it's very important... but if I had to guess, (which it is just that, a guess), I'd say that the weakest link for the majority of climbers is technical skill and efficiency rather than weak forearms. For this phase, because of the number of reps we learned lean toward a mostly neural response, rather than muscle growth, I'm focusing on 3-6 move boulder problems. Strength:volume ratio for the forearm in climbers and non-climbers. Build the muscles, then ask them to work harder... that's the plan. In climbing? Forearm oxygenation kinetics has been shown to be a key determinant of rock climbing performance and appears to distinguish ability groups. Thanks, Mark. The majority of finger strength in climbing is from conditioned tendons and ligaments and isometric contractions of the muscle. The length of the boulder problem is the key. Most of the climbers I personally see at my gym (for example), can be described almost as, "scrawny". Any reason for that? It requires practice. This exercise turns one of the best posterior chain exercises into a tough but effective forearm and grip builder. Hypertrophy for Climbing Part 1: Stronger, Not Bigger. Most climbers do not have exceptionally large forearms. You can be honest with yourself and say, "Well big muscles are important to me, and I want to climb", and that's perfectly, 100% fine. They've just always been that way. Logically, elite climbers' forearm endurance was explained by enhanced local vasodilatory capacity, ... i.e. Probably? Reddit's rock climbing training community. The greater MVC in boulderers may be due to neural adaptation and not hypertrophy. You're right, probably not because they were too pumped, but that would be an endurance issue. Extreme. When talking about hypertrophy, I know I've personally fallen off of many, many routes or problems because my shoulder/bicep/lat wasn't quite strong enough to do the next move easily. On these, I do 3 sets of 6 hangs on each grip for 3-6 seconds, resting 5 seconds between each hang, and 2 minutes between each set. I think there might be some value to building a base level of hand strength. If you want forearms hypertrophy do wrist curls, I am not sure if it would help your climbing though. In my experience, I see climbers fall far more often because a move is hard instead of because they're forearms failed (unless I'm climbing in the Red). Rope climbing has become a lost art in physical training. Zlagboard Forearm Endurance Workout. what are you doing in terms of forearms, the weakest link for probably 99% of climbers? So get big muscles by doing body building exercises, and climb. Your points are well taken, but I believe there may be a theoretical justification for a climber pursuing hypertrophy of the forearm flexors. Press J to jump to the feed. So for climbing, you'd spend your "off season" doing CoC grippers, or heavy finger rolls for like 6 weeks. Press question mark to learn the rest of the keyboard shortcuts. The basic idea is that you're gonna build the muscle with whatever is most effective at building muscle, then you're gonna try to make your new muscle sport specific. All we can do is modify what we learn from the world of lifting, add it to the apparatus we know works, and see if we progress. My fault. More sets, more reps, less weight ought to do it. That isn't to say that forearm hypertrophy isn't important... it's very important... but if I had to guess, (which it is just that, a guess), I'd say that the weakest link for the majority of climbers is technical skill and efficiency rather than weak forearms. Maybe? Cool. I'm giving it a shot at present because it feels less threatening to the finger injury I have at present, though no idea how its working just yet. Any reason to avoid using the fingerboard for hypertrophy? It seems to make my thumb, index, and pinky fingers alot stronger. A friend of mine talked to him about it when he was in Bishop trying The Process. He definitely trains, and with weight, just not much with a barbell. Rope climbing is a fantastic grip, forearm, and upper body exercise that can benefit strength athletes, Olympic lifters, and even bodybuilders. Bigger muscles have more potential for strength and power than small muscles. Example would be Daniel Woods. Thanks for the input! Woods hits the campus and fingerboards hard. What do folks think of standard grip training equipment for getting bigger forearms? We won't be spamming you, but will be giving you the best of what we find on the internet each month, as well as what we're up to and building. ← If You Aren't Making Progress, You're Probably Making Excuses. I thought that's what repeaters were for. From the little climbing literature I've looked at, it seems bigger muscles are better. If those are hard to come by, then a 3-6 move section of a much harder problem. Should I be investing more time and focus on the hangboard and other sport specific exercises? This trait, the overgrowth of tissue, is called hypertrophy, and it is not unique to Honnold. Sports - especially a sport where weight is important to keep down, rarely talks about hypertrophy. For instance, your pinch strength? Thanks for supporting what we’re building. So, following that logic, would big forearms make one a stronger climber? As training these are mostly limited to climbers, there is little science about isolating fingers and forearms for that purpose (mostly guessing and regurgitated articles). Number of times I've seen him lift a weight up, or squeeze a grip? It is also not genetic. The grip strengthening exercises include: heavy finger curls, reverse wrist curls, hammer curls, reverse curls, wrist pronation/supination and radial deviation/ulnar deviation. I think you've got the sports specificity thing wrong. Outside of maybe pure gymnastics, you're going to have a hard time finding such a specimen. I do all the reps on one grip before moving to the next. You've got your big climbing muscles working now, and are ready to pull. And trying to grip them with your fingertips to engage those muscles is, imho, a bad idea: 1) they can slip, easily, and 2) heavy, dynamic loading of the finger tendons goes south really quickly. This will simply be a supplementary exercise I do after training when I stretch. Hypertrophic hands and forearms are common to every professional and serious climber, but climbers are not born this way; they have made themselves become this way. You can be a super strong person and suck at climbing. Hypertrophy for Climbing Part 1: Stronger, Not Bigger. Opening and closing a spring-laden grip is not the way to be a better climber.